Apalachicola Bay: The Nursery for the Gulf

Sunrise on Apalachicola Bay ©Lynne Buchanan

Apalachicola Bay is one of Florida's greatest treasures.  Over 90 percent of all creatures in the Gulf of Mexico spend time in this amazing, nutrient laden body of water. If we do not protect it, who knows what the consequences will be for the larger gulf ecosystem and far beyond.  Apalachicola Bay is an estuary, as is the Caloosahatchee where I was today.  All estuaries deserve to be protected.  The special mixture of saline and fresh water is essential for the flourishing of life.  If the balance is unnaturally altered and these bodies of water become either too salty or too inundated with fresh water, then sea grasses, fish, oysters, and other plants and animals die and this affects all life dependent on them including us.  

Illuminated Grasses, Apalachicola Bay ©Lynne Buchanan

As the sun rose higher in the sky, the grasses became illuminated and seemed to magically shimmer as the waters washed in and out of them in gentle waves.  The grasses parted and came together again, almost like they were lungs breathing life into the ecosystem they supported.  Birds began to fly in and out of the grasses, which were as inviting as spun gold.  

Lafayette Park Boardwalk ©Lynne Buchanan

The boardwalk at Lafayette Park is a beautiful place to watch the sunrise and from where the photos above were taken.  Many people get married in the gazebo here.  I understand why.  To unite beside such a glorious vantage point onto teaming life must be auspicious for any future union.  And yet, the famous Apalachicola Oysters are threatened to the point of becoming endangered.  They cannot survive without enough fresh water.

Shrimp Boats in the Evening Light

The shrimp boats run frequently and the industry is still thriving.  Yet the more we pollute our waters and allow our rivers to run dry, the more creatures are harmed and this has a huge economic impact.  People livelihoods depend on shrimping and catching oysters, and when their catches dwindle and even disappear our food source is also diminished.  Water and life can regenerate up to a certain point, but that point can be crossed and then extinction occurs and our rivers die.  

Last Light on the Marina ©Lynne Buchanan

As the last rays of light dipped below the horizon and darkness encroached, I felt as if these boats were singing a swan song.  I hate to think of them not bringing back boatfuls of healthy, delectable seafood.  I don't want to question whether the catch they do bring back is fit to eat.  What happens to our waterways affects us.  We ingest what enters the systems of the sea creatures we eat.    Besides the problem of low water levels, coal ash also makes its way down this river that some claim is the site of the original Garden of Eden.

Please say a prayer for our water, for the Apalachicola and other jewels that are being threatened by what happens upstream, or far away in other parts of the globe brought by water or air currents.  Nothing exists in a vacuum.  Everything is interrelated and it is frankly criminal to say that it doesn't matter what we do because China is creating the biggest environmental problems.  We need to act locally even as we think globally and start by cleaning up and protecting our own backyards, and where better to start than with the biggest nursery for the Gulf of Mexico?  

The Islands of the Forgotten Coast: St. George and St. Joseph's Peninsula

Before Daybreak, Symphony in Mauve ©Lynne Buchanan

Apalachicola is so breathtaking that it will take three blog posts to show just a fraction of the photographs I made.  This image was taken at the end of St. George Island  right before day break.  The sky started turning mauves and corals and I found this little inland lake where the tide had washed up on shore.  The colors of the sky were reflected perfectly and fog was rising off it.  There were even delicate plants growing in the middle.  It was so mysterious and beautiful it took my breath away.  The first images I made were too foggy, but then the lens cleared up and I got so excited.

Sudden Explosion of Color ©Lynne Buchanan

The funny thing was just after the predawn light in the first photo, the sky clouded over and I thought it was going to be a bust.  A bright red ball appeared for a second, but the rest of the sky was rather nondescript so when I looked through the lens it was boring.  I was about to turn around and walk away, but I decided to wait a second and then this happened.  Suddenly all the dark clouds parted and the yellow of the sun peaked through near the horizon to turn the sky peaches and deep reds that were so intense they reflected clear across the water.  I hoped it was a metaphor for my life.  Though often I am very positive, sometimes darkness enters into my world.  Things don't go as planned and I even consider giving up on my path.  Then, at the darkest hour, the light miraculous appears again. 

The vegetation at the end of the island has such interesting textures and colors and it is possible to walk closer to them because they are so close to the shore and not protected like the other areas of the island, though of course I would never tread near any of these beautiful plants.

Dune Vegetation, St. George Island ©Lynne Buchanan

St. George Island Clouds in the Morning Light  ©Lynne Buchanan

When the sun was all the way up, the lake I photographed in the first image reflected the clouds in the sky.  This image was made with a slo mo Singh Ray filter to smooth out the rough water and show the fluid movement of the clouds entering in the scene.

Sea Oats, St. George Island ©Lynne Buchanan

St. George Shoreline with Clouds ©Lynne Buchanan

It was hard to leave this idyllic spot, especially since there are no beaches near Gainesville.  Everywhere I looked, land and sky came together in intriguing compositions and the pristine beauty shone forth.

Pine Forest, St. George Island ©Lynne Buchanan

Pine Foret and Dunes ©St. George Island

Finally, I did manage to tear myself away, but not before stopping at the boardwalk to the pine forest.  The verdancy of these trees is just as impressive as the emerald green waters, and the stands of long leaf pines, home of the red-cockaded woodpecker, look so stately and gracious.  I look forward to spending much more time in this hidden treasure of Florida. Once you have been here, it is impossible to forget the forgotten coast.

Kayakers Coming in From Apalachicola Riverkeeper Annual River Trek

Rounding the Bend for the Final Stretch

Kayakers Completing the 106+ Mile Journey Down the Apalachicola River

The photographs above show the kayakers coming in from their 106+ mile trek down the Apalachicola River as part of an annual Apalachicola Riverkeeper fundraiser.  They made the journey in five days and camped along the river.  Hopefully, I will be joining them next year!  92% of all creatures in the Gulf of Mexico spend time in the Apalachicola Bay.  Keeping this bay healthy and with enough fresh water is critical to our ecosystem.

It is not to late to contribute to the Apalachicola Riverkeeper in honor of their efforts.  Either go to the Apalacicola Riverkeeper Facebook page or click the link below.

http://myemail.constantcontact.com/They-did-it-.html?soid=1103365797625&aid=Od7q4EMbeYw#fblike

Dead Lakes–Pristine and Threatened

Fall Color Dead Lakes, with Osprey Nest ©Lynne Buchanan

I just returned from my first ever trip to Apalachicola, a true paradise in Florida but it needs our help. Dead Lakes is on the Chipola River near its confluence with the Apalachicola and is one of the richest ecosystems in Florida and where Tupelo Honey comes from.  The lake is filled with dead cypress stumps and there are many theories as to how these majestic trees died.  One is that there was a flood and massive influx of salt water, another is that sand bars were created when the current of the Apalachicola River blocked the influx of the Chipola, and a third has to do with the dam 513 that was built nearby but has since been removed due to public demand.  That dam destroyed the riparian landscape and deposited silt and muck on sandbars, which is gradually being cleared away now that partial natural flow has been restored.  The reason I say partial natural flow is that water levels are way down in the Lakes and on the Apalachicola River due to water wars between Florida, Georgia, and Alabama.  In fact, if much more water is diverted the water levels won't even be measurable on the gauge in Dead Lakes.  If the theory that an influx of salt water killed the trees is correct, then that is testament to the dangers of upsetting the balance between salinity and fresh water for ecosystems all along the river and throughout the world.  More will be discussed about this on my upcoming blog about the Apalachicola Bay. 

View from the Dead Lakes Viewing Platform ©Lynne Buchanan

I am pretty sure there was supposed to be water out here.  You can see the water line on the trees and why else would there have been a boardwalk and viewing platform?  Unfortunately, it was bone dry.

Kingfisher Surveying the Scene, Such a Long Way Down to the Water
©Lynne Buchanan

My guide Matthew Goodwin, owner of Off the Map Expeditions, took me out on a pontoon boat and told me that the low water levels are great for photographs, because more of the trees are exposed, but obviously not so good for the ecosystem.  

Corkscrew Stump ©Lynne Buchanan

Sewing Needle Stump ©Lynne Buchanan

The stumps form fascinating shapes and truly are a photographers paradise...

Birds Roosting in the Evening Light
©Lynne Buchanan

If We  Could Only Understand the Woodstork's Message
©Lynne Buchanan

Yet, Dead Lakes is home to a vast ecosystem besides the cypress including tupelo trees and bees, wood storks, ibis, herons, ospreys and other resident and migratory birds, bream, bass, perch, and catfish and many other creatures.  This is true for the entire Apalachicola River system, which needs enough freshwater to stay healthy.  

Stay tuned for more photographs and facts.  Just wanted to share a few images from my first afternoon there.

Thanks to Shannon Lease, Dan Tonsmiere, and the Apalachicola Riverkeepers for guidance and hospitality.  Looking forward to sharing many photographs from my visits to the Apalachicola and other rivers as I work on my upcoming exhibition for the South Florida Museum that is scheduled to open in February 2016.

Gratitude for Tuscawilla Lake

Gratitude for  Tuscawilla Lake ©Lynne Buchanan

This evening on Tuscawilla Lake was so healing for my soul.  I am very involved in writing my book and on a service project for the environment.  Sometimes all the issues I explore seem overwhelming and the situation we face as a culture seems dire.  At such times, the best thing I can do is take my kayak down to the lake and go for a paddle.  The lake near my house is so lovely.  Unlike many other waterways I study, it is in pretty good shape.  The bladderwort in the lake has exploded and bladderwort is a wonderful plant.  It cleans the water and keeps mosquitoes at bay.  I paddled all around the lake, looking at the clouds and lily pads from different angles.  The good part about all the rain we've had is that the lake is very deep now and it is possible to kayak far deeper into it than I ever have.  I am hopeful that this rain is also replenishing the aquifers.  Near the end of my paddle, Source seemed to agree that it was a good evening.  As the sun set it went right behind this little cloud on the horizon and shot up God rays like a fan.  The other clouds and their reflections benefited from this light extravaganza.  Sitting in my kayak, I was so grateful for the show and shouted thank you for the universe.  This is why I am dedicating my life to protecting waterways and the environment.  Not only do I need water to live in a physical sense, it is a spiritual healer as well.

Tuscawilla Clouds and Bladderwort ©Lynne Buchanan

Early in the evening, I watched these clouds dance across the sky as I paddled deeper into the bladderwort and lotus plants.  It felt so wonderful to be alone with the birds enjoying the scenery as it shifted and revealed patterns I never anticipated.  There is no way I can ever photograph with expectations any more.  What happens all depends on what gifts nature cares to give me.  I wait with gratitude and respond from my heart.

Lily Pads and Clouds ©Lynne Buchanan

Yesterday, I came across on article by Jack Turner in The Sun Magazine about how wilderness is an endangered experience and how we can't expect anyone to support conservation if they never go outside and have an immediate, wild experience.   As I paddled around in this lake, where I did not see a single other soul and which I did not even have to drive to from my house, I realized that people don't have to travel great distances to experience wilderness. I am fortunate that I live in such a beautiful place, but there are parks and little bits of nature everywhere.  When you start by appreciating your own backyard, that backyard grows and grows until you care about nature everywhere.

Every direction I turned there were clouds.  Then the sun began to set and beautiful reds mixed with lavenders and pastel hues to create a canvas of color in the sky and in the water.  I could have stayed out there until it was dark, but the vegetation had grown up so much in the launch slip that I knew I would have difficulty getting back in. Though the lake is mostly filled with bladderwort, some of the vegetation near the shoreline may have been invasive from runoff.

Moon, Clouds, and Bladderwort on Tuscawilla Lake 
©Lynne Buchanan

Just before I used my hands to pull the kayak through to the shore, I turned around and saw the full moon over the lake.  I was sad to say goodnight, but I knew next time I look out my window and see clouds and run down to the lake I will be treated with another equally beautiful display, the uniqueness of which will be a mystery until then.  This is why I enjoy paddling so much.  I never know what gifts I will receive, but I am always grateful. 

Saying Goodnight to Tuscawilla Lake ©Lynne Buchanan

No matter what challenges I face every day, I know I can go to sleep knowing there is still so much beauty in this world.  Tomorrow, I will wake up and go back to helping people wake up through my art.  As long as I am in this world and there is beauty like this left to preserve, I will keep celebrating it and doing my best to spread the message that we owe it to our children and ourselves to learn from, connect, and protect the nature around us.